JRE #1626 – Alex Honnold

30-Mar-21






Joe Rogan Experience #1626 – Alex Honnold Podcast Topics

This podcast explores the life and perspectives of Alex Honnold, a renowned professional rock climber, author, and co-host of the “Climbing Gold” podcast. Rogan and Honnold delve into various aspects of climbing, touching on controversial topics like drug testing in competitions, the evolution of the sport, and the ethics of free soloing. Underlying themes explore the nature of risk, the pursuit of personal limits, and the unique perspective gained through living a life dedicated to climbing.

1. Alex Honnold’s Transition from Adventure Climber to Podcast Host:

  • Honnold’s podcast, “Climbing Gold,” began as a lead-up to the 2020 Olympics but shifted to explore the broader history and evolution of climbing.
  • The podcast aims to preserve the adventurous spirit of climbing, which has been challenged by the increasing emphasis on athleticism and gym-based training.
  • Honnold acknowledges he doesn’t talk much about himself on the podcast, focusing on the stories of other climbers and the state of the sport.
  • Despite his free soloing fame, Honnold prefers a deeper look at climbing’s history and diversity, from traditional alpinism to the more athletic, gym-focused approach.

2. The Evolution of Climbing as a Sport:

  • Climbing’s inclusion in the Olympics has brought renewed attention and resources to the sport, fostering a new generation of highly skilled, athletic climbers.
  • This shift has led to a debate about the future of climbing, with some concerned about the loss of its adventurous spirit and focus on more traditional forms of the sport.
  • The podcast delves into the various aspects of competition climbing, including speed climbing, difficulty, and bouldering, and how they are measured.
  • Honnold highlights the crucial role of route setters in shaping the competition landscape and their impact on the fairness and difficulty of routes.

3. Drug Testing in Climbing Competitions:

  • Honnold discusses the surprising prevalence of drug testing in climbing competitions, particularly for marijuana use.
  • He shares anecdotes of prominent climbers facing sanctions for testing positive for weed, highlighting the controversy surrounding the sport’s stance on recreational drug use.
  • The discussion explores the rationale behind drug testing in a sport that relies heavily on mental and physical resilience.
  • Honnold offers a nuanced perspective, questioning the relevance of marijuana use as a performance enhancer and arguing for a more relaxed approach.

4. The Importance of Training and Injury Prevention in Climbing:

  • Honnold emphasizes the importance of proper training, particularly finger training, for aspiring elite climbers.
  • He highlights the risk of young climbers over-training and injuring themselves due to the disparity in muscle strength and tendon development.
  • Honnold acknowledges the increased availability of online training programs and resources for climbers of all levels.
  • The discussion explores the evolving landscape of climbing training, reflecting the growing awareness and understanding of the sport’s demands.

5. The Universal Appeal of Climbing:

  • Honnold believes climbing has a primal appeal that transcends cultural and technical barriers, stemming from our arboreal ancestry.
  • He points to the awe-inspiring feats of squirrels and other animals in their natural habitats as evidence of this primal instinct.
  • Climbing’s dynamism and grace, combined with its inherent challenge, contribute to its universal appeal.
  • The discussion emphasizes the shared experience of witnessing feats of athleticism and skill, regardless of technical knowledge or personal climbing experience.

6. Alex Honnold’s Jungle Expedition in Guyana:

  • Honnold recounts his recent expedition to Guyana, a National Geographic TV show project focused on the endemic species of frogs inhabiting the region.
  • He discusses the unique geological formations known as “tepui,” towering sandstone walls that have eroded over millions of years, creating isolated ecosystems.
  • Honnold describes the challenging conditions of the jungle, including the constant rain and high UV exposure, and the remarkable adaptations of plants and animals to this harsh environment.
  • The expedition involved climbing a previously unclimbed peak, adding to the scientific understanding of the region’s biodiversity.

7. The Nature of Risk and Free Soloing:

  • Honnold discusses the process of establishing routes for free solo climbs, emphasizing the importance of prior experience with ropes and the careful assessment of risk.
  • He explains that the final section of a free solo climb, particularly when approaching the summit, often presents the greatest risk due to the unstable nature of rock and soil.
  • Honnold shares his perspective on the psychological aspects of free soloing, highlighting the importance of confidence, focus, and a deep understanding of the route.
  • He acknowledges the inherent risk involved, but emphasizes that it is carefully calculated and managed through experience and preparation.

8. The Controversial Ethics of Free Soloing:

  • The podcast explores the ethical implications of free solo climbing, acknowledging the potential consequences of failure and the inherent risk involved.
  • Honnold defends his choice to free solo, arguing that it is a deeply personal and rewarding experience, but also acknowledges the responsibility to minimize risk and protect himself.
  • The discussion touches on the debate about whether free soloing can be considered “responsible” or if it represents an inherently reckless disregard for safety.
  • Honnold’s perspective highlights the complexities of pushing personal limits, balancing ambition with risk, and making informed choices in the face of danger.

9. The Role of Technology in Climbing:

  • Honnold discusses the impact of technology on climbing, particularly the development of new training tools, climbing equipment, and ways to document and share climbing experiences.
  • He acknowledges the role of social media in promoting the sport and highlighting the feats of climbers, but also expresses concerns about the potential for glamorizing and oversimplifying the experience.
  • The discussion explores the future of climbing technology, including VR climbing experiences, haptic feedback gear, and the potential for robots to climb.
  • Honnold shares his perspective on the balance between embracing technological advancements and preserving the core values of climbing.

10. The Impact of COVID-19 on Climbing and Outdoor Recreation:

  • Honnold shares his experience with the COVID-19 pandemic, highlighting the challenges of navigating travel restrictions and lockdowns while seeking out opportunities for climbing.
  • He discusses the importance of outdoor recreation as a healthy and sustainable outlet during periods of isolation and uncertainty.
  • Honnold advocates for a balanced approach to public health measures, emphasizing the importance of personal responsibility and the benefits of outdoor activity.
  • The discussion touches on the ongoing debate about the balance between personal freedom and public safety during public health emergencies.

11. The Future of Sustainable Transportation and Energy:

  • Honnold expresses his enthusiasm for the development of electric adventure vehicles and their potential to reduce reliance on fossil fuels.
  • He highlights the efforts of companies like Rivian, which are incorporating sustainability into their design processes, emphasizing second-life applications for battery packs.
  • The discussion explores the ongoing race to develop clean and efficient energy sources, including electric vehicles, synthetic fuels, and battery storage technologies.
  • Honnold shares his perspective on the importance of innovation and collaboration in finding solutions to environmental challenges.

12. The Role of Mental Toughness and Resilience in Climbing:

  • Honnold discusses the mental aspects of climbing, particularly the importance of focus, confidence, and the ability to manage anxiety and fear.
  • He shares his personal experiences with overcoming challenges and pushing his limits, highlighting the importance of mental preparation and the ability to bounce back from setbacks.
  • Honnold’s perspective underscores the mental resilience required for high-risk activities and the role of mental training in achieving success.
  • The discussion explores the potential link between REM sleep and mental calmness, suggesting a potential connection between sleep patterns and Honnold’s ability to handle high-pressure situations.

13. The Importance of Physical Exercise and a Healthy Lifestyle:

  • Honnold emphasizes the importance of regular exercise and a healthy lifestyle for maintaining physical resilience and preventing injuries, especially in a demanding sport like climbing.
  • He discusses his approach to training, including body weight exercises, stretching, and the importance of finding a balance between pushing limits and allowing for rest and recovery.
  • Honnold shares his perspective on the role of bodywork and massage in optimizing performance and preventing injuries.
  • The discussion explores the connection between physical fitness, mental well-being, and the pursuit of ambitious goals.

14. The Impact of Climbing on Honnold’s Daily Life:

  • Honnold discusses his decision to live in a house in Vegas, highlighting the comforts and convenience of a more traditional lifestyle.
  • He shares his approach to managing digital media and avoiding distractions, opting for a more intentional and limited engagement with technology.
  • Honnold’s perspective on daily life reflects the balance between his passion for climbing and the desire for a comfortable and fulfilling life outside of the sport.
  • The discussion explores the potential trade-offs involved in pursuing a passion that demands a significant commitment of time and energy.

15. The Importance of Preserving History and Sharing Knowledge:

  • Honnold discusses the importance of preserving the history of climbing and sharing stories of pioneers and visionaries who have shaped the sport.
  • He highlights the value of learning from the experiences of older generations of climbers and understanding the evolution of the sport.
  • Honnold emphasizes the importance of documenting and sharing stories to inspire future generations and ensure that the adventurous spirit of climbing is not lost.
  • The discussion explores the relationship between historical knowledge, contemporary practices, and the future of climbing.

16. The Role of the Climbing Community:

  • Honnold discusses the vibrant climbing community in Vegas and the increasing number of professional climbers who are choosing to live and train there.
  • He highlights the appeal of Red Rock Canyon as a world-class climbing destination and the strong sense of community that exists among climbers.
  • Honnold’s perspective underscores the importance of shared experiences, collaboration, and support within the climbing community.
  • The discussion explores the unique aspects of the climbing community and the strong bonds that are forged through shared challenges and pursuits.

17. The Significance of Pushing Personal Limits:

  • Honnold discusses the significance of pushing personal limits and embracing challenges, particularly in a sport like climbing where the stakes can be high.
  • He shares his perspective on the value of risk-taking and the lessons learned through overcoming obstacles and pushing boundaries.
  • Honnold’s story underscores the importance of finding meaning and purpose through challenging pursuits and the growth that comes from confronting fear and uncertainty.
  • The discussion explores the nature of human resilience, the power of ambition, and the pursuit of personal fulfillment.

18. The Potential Impact of Climate Change on Outdoor Recreation:

  • Honnold discusses the potential impact of climate change on outdoor recreation, particularly the shrinking snowpack and the changing conditions for climbing and skiing.
  • He highlights the importance of addressing climate change and the role of technology in developing sustainable solutions for transportation and energy.
  • Honnold’s perspective underscores the interconnectedness of human activity, climate change, and the future of outdoor recreation.
  • The discussion emphasizes the need for responsible stewardship of the environment and the importance of protecting natural resources for future generations.

19. The Importance of Community and Collaboration:

  • Honnold discusses the importance of collaboration and community involvement in addressing complex challenges, including environmental issues, social justice, and the advancement of technology.
  • He highlights the role of his foundation in promoting solar energy and microgrids in Puerto Rico.
  • Honnold’s perspective emphasizes the power of collective action and the importance of working together to create positive change.
  • The discussion explores the interconnectedness of different communities, industries, and individuals in achieving shared goals.

20. The Ongoing Evolution of Climbing:

  • Honnold discusses the future of climbing and the potential for new innovations to further shape the sport.
  • He shares his excitement for VR climbing experiences and their potential to bring the thrill of climbing to a wider audience.
  • Honnold’s perspective highlights the dynamic nature of climbing and the potential for continued growth and evolution.
  • The discussion explores the importance of embracing change and adapting to new technologies and challenges.

5 Memorable Quotes:

  • “I like climbing stuff, and you know, if it’s the tallest thing to climb, you’re like, ‘oh, that’s cool.'” – Honnold’s casual approach to the idea of climbing Mount Everest, showcasing his focus on the challenge itself rather than the fame.
  • “When you go to sleep, you’re totally committing to, ‘Alright. This all had better work. This is better hold.'” – Honnold reveals the mental commitment required for free soloing, emphasizing the trust in equipment and the acceptance of potential consequences.
  • “I hate glamorizing. I hate looking backward too much.” – Honnold’s critique of romanticizing a “back-to-nature” lifestyle, highlighting the desire for modern comforts and advancements by those who live in remote areas.
  • “I think part of that is because you get worked by nature so often that then when you’re in sort normal life, everything feels pretty relaxed.” – Honnold’s explanation for the calm demeanor of many climbers, suggesting that the challenges of nature make everyday life feel relatively easy.
  • “Maybe I’ll just sleep really well, and then I’m really relaxed as a result. You know, it’s like, it’s kinda it’s kinda interesting.” – Honnold’s humorous reflection on the potential connection between his heavy REM sleep and his ability to remain calm during high-risk climbing situations.