JRE #467 – Peter Giuliano

This podcast takes a deep dive into the world of coffee with Peter Giuliano, a coffee enthusiast, barista, and director of the Specialty Coffee Symposium. It’s a lively and informative conversation that covers everything from the origins of coffee to the science behind brewing a perfect cup. The episode offers insights into the complexities of coffee production, the art of coffee tasting, and the cultural significance of this beloved beverage.

Major Topics:

1. Ethiopian Coffee and Its Unique Flavors:
   1. The podcast begins with a discussion of Ethiopian coffee, considered the origin of coffee, known for its floral and lemony aroma.
   2. Peter explains how the specific coffee variety grown in Ethiopia, combined with the unique processing techniques, creates its distinctive flavor profile.
   3. The conversation explores the cultural significance of coffee in Ethiopia and its role in the coffee ceremony, a traditional gathering involving the preparation and sharing of coffee.
   4. Joe and Peter delve into the nuances of Ethiopian coffee flavors, highlighting the differences between Yirgacheffe, which is known for its floral notes, and Sidamo, which is characterized by its honey-like sweetness.
2. The Science of Coffee Brewing:
   1. Peter explains the importance of water temperature and extraction time for achieving optimal coffee flavor.
   2. He discusses the ideal temperature range for brewing coffee, 195-205 degrees Fahrenheit, and the perfect extraction percentage, 18-22%.
   3. The podcast explores the different methods of coffee brewing, including French press, pour-over, drip coffee, and the Clover machine, a sophisticated brewing system designed for precise extraction.
   4. Peter emphasizes the importance of “dialing in” the brewing process, adjusting variables like grind size, water temperature, and brewing time to achieve the desired flavor profile for a specific coffee.
3. Coffee Processing:
   1. The conversation covers the different coffee processing methods, including wet processing (washed) and dry processing (natural). Wet processing involves removing the fruit pulp by fermentation and washing, while dry processing involves drying the coffee cherries in the sun.
   2. Peter explains how these processing methods impact the final flavor of the coffee, with washed coffees typically being cleaner and brighter, while natural coffees tend to have a richer, fruitier taste.
   3. The podcast also explores the history of coffee processing, tracing its evolution from the traditional Ethiopian method of drying the coffee cherries in the sun to the more modern wet processing techniques developed in Costa Rica.
   4. Joe and Peter discuss the environmental challenges of coffee production, including the impact of climate change and the need for sustainable farming practices.
4. The Coffee Industry and Farmers:
   1. Peter describes the challenges faced by small-scale coffee farmers around the world, including low prices, market volatility, and the need for labor-intensive practices.
   2. He highlights the efforts of specialty coffee companies to work directly with farmers to improve quality and create a sustainable livelihood for coffee producers.
   3. The podcast explores the history of coffee cultivation, from its origins in Ethiopia to its spread to Yemen, Indonesia, and eventually, the Americas.
   4. Joe and Peter discuss the role of the Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA) in promoting quality and ethical practices within the coffee industry.
5. Coffee Tasting and Connoisseurship:
   1. The podcast delves into the art of coffee tasting, covering terms like body, aftertaste, and aroma.
   2. Peter explains how coffee tasting is a multi-sensory experience, involving both taste and smell, and how factors like the coffee’s origin, processing method, and roasting style can influence its flavor profile.
   3. The conversation explores the role of habituation in coffee tasting, where repeated exposure to a specific flavor can desensitize the palate, leading to the perception of different taste notes.
   4. Peter emphasizes the importance of tasting coffee fresh, as the flavors evolve over time after roasting.
6. Coffee Culture and its Impact:
   1. Joe and Peter discuss the cultural significance of coffee, highlighting its role as a social beverage and a catalyst for intellectual discourse.
   2. The podcast explores the history of coffee houses, which have served as gathering places for artists, writers, intellectuals, and revolutionaries throughout history.
   3. They discuss the impact of coffee on productivity and creativity, and the role of coffee as a stimulant.
   4. Peter argues that coffee is often undervalued and underappreciated, especially in a culture that prioritizes cheap, mass-produced coffee.
7. Decaffeinated Coffee:
   1. Peter discusses the process of decaffeination and the different methods used to remove caffeine from coffee beans.
   2. He explains that decaffeinated coffee still contains trace amounts of caffeine, and that consumers who are highly sensitive to caffeine may still experience its effects.
   3. The podcast explores the challenges of producing high-quality decaffeinated coffee, noting that the decaffeination process can impact the flavor of the coffee.
   4. Peter emphasizes that specialty coffee companies can produce delicious decaffeinated coffee if they prioritize quality and use appropriate methods.
8. The Future of Coffee:
   1. The podcast explores the environmental threats to coffee production, including climate change and the impact of coffee rust, a fungal disease that can devastate coffee crops.
   2. Peter discusses the importance of preserving genetic diversity in coffee, highlighting the risk of monoculture and the need for safeguarding the unique genetic resources found in Ethiopia.
   3. The conversation touches on the potential for coffee to become extinct if steps are not taken to address climate change and conserve genetic diversity.
   4. Peter highlights the efforts of the coffee industry to address these challenges, including research into climate-resistant coffee varieties and the development of sustainable farming practices.
9. Controversial and Provocative Topics:
   1. Civet Coffee (Kopi Luwak): The podcast touches on the controversial practice of using civet cats to produce Kopi Luwak coffee, highlighting the ethical concerns surrounding this method.
   2. Starbucks: The conversation briefly addresses Starbucks, acknowledging its role in popularizing coffee but also expressing concerns about the quality of its coffee and its impact on the coffee industry.
10. Underlying Themes:
    1. Appreciation for Craft and Artisanship: Throughout the podcast, Peter emphasizes the value of craftsmanship and the importance of supporting small-scale coffee producers who are dedicated to quality and sustainability.
    2. The Power of Passion and Obsession: Peter’s own passion for coffee is contagious, inspiring listeners to explore the nuances of coffee and appreciate the art of coffee making.
    3. The Cultural Significance of Coffee: The conversation highlights the long history of coffee as a social beverage and a catalyst for intellectual discourse, emphasizing its impact on culture and society.
    4. Environmental Responsibility: The podcast raises awareness of the environmental challenges facing the coffee industry and the need for sustainable practices.

Memorable Quotes:

1. “Most coffee people when they’re asked that question lie a little bit. The way I lied was I would say, ‘That’s like asking a parent who their favorite child is.’ You know what I mean? You can’t. You’re not allowed. That’s ridiculous.”
2. “A 195, 205 degrees. I know. It’s the honey spot. It is. It’s the honey buy. That’s where that’s where we get you know, guys like me get fired up over stuff like that.”
3. “If you don’t do that well enough, you leave all the good tasting stuff in the coffee that sponge the coffee cell walls. You know? And it doesn’t get in your cup and your and your coffee doesn’t taste very good. And plus, you’ve wasted all the good stuff you want to throwing it in the trash.”
4. “I always say like you buy bread. So you should get it. And between the time that it’s dried and between the time that it’s roasted and then you drink it, how much time should take place?”
5. “In many ways, they taught the world how to drink coffee. They taught the world to drink coffee in many ways.”