JRE #886 – Hank Shaw

This podcast dives into the fascinating world of Hank Shaw, a former journalist turned acclaimed chef and author specializing in wild game cuisine. The conversation is a delightful blend of food, hunting, fishing, and nature, with a healthy dose of humor and thought-provoking insights. From the intricacies of different species and their culinary nuances to the ethical considerations of hunting and the ever-present dangers of parasites, the episode explores a wide range of topics, touching on the deep connection between humans, nature, and food.

Major Topics and Summary:

1. Hank Shaw’s Transition from Journalism to Culinary Arts:

• Shaw’s background as a political blogger and journalist in Sacramento exposed him to the complexities of the political system.
• Anthony Bourdain’s show “No Reservations” ignited Shaw’s passion for food, opening his eyes to the artistry and passion behind cooking.
• He rejects the label of “artist” when applied to chefs, preferring terms like “artisan” or “craftsman,” emphasizing the focus on skill and technique.
• Shaw’s culinary approach emphasizes using local ingredients, reflecting the natural environment where the animal lived, creating a harmonious and authentic dining experience.

2. The Controversial World of Shark Consumption:

• Shaw addresses the common misconception that all sharks are endangered, highlighting the importance of nuance and understanding specific species and their conservation status.
• He explains the unique flavor profiles of different sharks, differentiating between the meaty texture of Mako and the grouper-like consistency of Leopard sharks.
• Shaw emphasizes the importance of proper handling and preservation, especially for cartilaginous fish like sharks, skates, and rays, due to the build-up of uric acid in the meat if not handled immediately.
• He advocates for responsible fishing practices, emphasizing catch limits, selective fishing for larger females, and returning pregnant sharks to the water.

3. The Intriguing Case of the “Guacamole Bear”:

• Shaw introduces the concept of “Blueberry Bear,” a bear that has consumed large quantities of blueberries, resulting in a unique sweetness and fat content in its meat.
• He then introduces the concept of “Guacamole Bear,” a bear that has supposedly feasted on avocados in the Santa Gabriel Mountains, sparking curiosity about the potential flavor and fat profile.
• The conversation delves into the different types of trichomonosis, a parasitic infection found in bears, and its varying susceptibility to freezing depending on geographical location.
• The discussion highlights the importance of understanding the nuances of wildlife and its impact on the taste and safety of the meat.

4. The Deep Connection Between Humans and Hunting:

• Shaw emphasizes that hunting isn’t just about obtaining food but a deep connection to nature and a way of life deeply ingrained in human evolution.
• He highlights anthropological evidence suggesting that humans’ physical and cognitive abilities, like running, throwing, and complex communication, evolved as a result of cooperative hunting of large herbivores.
• Shaw describes the emotional and psychological connection to hunting, including the familiar feeling of processing the animal and the rewarding experience of connecting with nature and utilizing its bounty.
• He acknowledges that the practice of hunting is universal across various cultures and civilizations, demonstrating its deep-rooted significance in human history.

5. The Art of Preparing Wild Game and Understanding Its Uniqueness:

• Shaw debunks the notion that wild game tastes “gamey” solely due to the animal’s diet, emphasizing that improper handling and care contribute significantly to off-flavors.
• He compares the taste profiles of various game species, highlighting the difference between ducks that eat seeds (more desirable) and those that consume primarily seafood (often with a fishy taste).
• Shaw emphasizes the importance of understanding the nuances of different game species, from the delicate flavor of grouse to the intense flavor of wild boar, and the impact of their diet on their taste.
• He emphasizes the importance of understanding how to prepare different game species, highlighting the need for proper handling, aging, and cooking techniques to maximize flavor and ensure safety.

6. The “Underdog” Appeal of Havelina:

• Shaw highlights the often-misunderstood nature of Havelina, a wild peccary found in the Southwest, contrasting its popularity in Arizona and New Mexico with its negative perception in South Texas.
• He describes the unique flavor profile of Havelina, comparing it more closely to domestic pork than wild boar.
• Shaw explains the importance of proper skinning to avoid damaging a scent gland, ensuring a clean flavor.
• He promotes the appreciation of Havelina as a delicious and underutilized game species, encouraging people to overcome any misconceptions and explore its culinary potential.

7. The Importance of Respect and Ethical Considerations in Hunting:

• Shaw advocates for ethical hunting practices, emphasizing respect for the animal and understanding its role in the ecosystem.
• He discusses the need for population control, particularly for invasive species like wild pigs, which can cause significant damage to the environment and agriculture.
• Shaw highlights the importance of understanding the impact of hunting on various species and ensuring sustainable practices to maintain healthy populations.
• He encourages responsible hunting, emphasizing the need to make clean kills, utilize the entire animal, and minimize waste.

8. The Fascinating World of Wild Food and Its Diverse Flavors:

• Shaw explores the world of unusual and often overlooked wild food, from sturgeon to paddlefish to gar.
• He shares insights into the unique culinary properties of these species, their taste profiles, and preferred cooking methods.
• Shaw emphasizes the importance of exploring the diversity of wild food and challenging traditional culinary norms, celebrating the rich flavors and textures available in nature.
• He encourages listeners to embrace new culinary experiences and broaden their understanding of the diverse and delicious world of wild game.

9. The Unpredictability and Importance of Knowing Your Prey:

• Shaw discusses the challenge of hunting certain species like pronghorn antelope, highlighting their nervousness, speed, and tendency to quickly deteriorate after death.
• He emphasizes the importance of quick field dressing and refrigeration to prevent spoilage and ensure the meat’s quality.
• Shaw illustrates the significance of understanding the characteristics and behavior of your prey, emphasizing the need for preparedness and proper handling.
• He encourages listeners to learn about different species and their unique attributes to ensure successful and ethical hunting experiences.

10. The Ethics of Commercial Deer Farming and “Frankenbucks”:

• Shaw expresses his skepticism and concern regarding commercial deer farms, highlighting the practice of raising deer in confined spaces and feeding them a high-protein diet.
• He describes the unnatural appearance and characteristics of these “Frankenbucks,” with their abnormally large antlers, often considered undesirable due to their lack of natural beauty and wildness.
• The conversation raises ethical questions about the commodification of wildlife and the impact of artificial selection on natural populations.
• Shaw encourages listeners to consider the consequences of commercial wildlife farming and its potential impact on wild populations and the integrity of hunting.

11. The Importance of Understanding Food Sources and Production:

• Shaw highlights the widespread use of corn in commercial meat and fish production, explaining how it influences the taste and flavor profiles of these animals.
• He emphasizes the importance of understanding the food chain and the impact of industrial agriculture on the flavors and characteristics of our food.
• Shaw encourages listeners to consider the origins and production methods of their food, exploring alternatives like wild game and sustainable farming practices.
• He emphasizes the value of understanding the journey of food from its source to our plates, promoting a deeper appreciation for the relationship between food and the environment.

12. The Dangers of Parasites and Understanding Their Impact:

• Shaw discusses the prevalence of parasites in wild animals, highlighting the potential health risks associated with consuming them.
• He explains the importance of proper preparation and cooking methods to kill parasites, emphasizing the need for understanding the specific risks associated with different species.
• The conversation delves into the dangers of trichomonosis, a parasitic infection in bears, and its varying susceptibility to freezing depending on geographical location.
• Shaw encourages listeners to be aware of the potential dangers of parasites and practice food safety measures to ensure a healthy and enjoyable experience with wild game.

13. The Impact of Invasive Species and the Need for Management:

• Shaw highlights the issue of invasive species, particularly wild pigs, and their devastating impact on native ecosystems and agriculture.
• He discusses the need for population control and the ethical considerations surrounding hunting invasive species to mitigate their negative impact.
• The conversation raises awareness about the importance of understanding the role of humans in managing ecosystems and addressing the consequences of introduced species.
• Shaw encourages listeners to consider the role of hunting and other management strategies in protecting native wildlife and preserving biodiversity.

14. The Importance of Responsible and Ethical Consumption:

• Shaw encourages listeners to explore new food sources and consider the ethical implications of their dietary choices.
• He promotes the idea of responsible consumption, advocating for sustainable practices, understanding the origins of our food, and minimizing waste.
• The conversation emphasizes the need for a deeper connection between food, the environment, and our own health and well-being.
• Shaw encourages listeners to become more informed consumers, making conscious decisions about the food they choose and its impact on the world around them.

5 Memorable Quotes:

• “I’d hesitate to use the word ‘artist’ with cooks… we’re artisans. We’re craftsmen.”
• “Everybody does like eating. Except for registered dietitians. They don’t like it.”
• “Americans are not really good at nuance. They see one shark is endangered, so they think they all must be.”
• “The biomass of ground squirrels is more than any other animal on the ranch… 270,000 acres with mountain lions, deer, elk, pigs… and there’s more weight of ground squirrels than anything else.”
• “I think we are hardwired on deer. Anthropologically speaking… there’s a deep reward system that gets plugged into that you didn’t even know you had when the deer is down.”